Sunday, September 5, 2010
North Country - Part One
When we left the lake was kicking up a wicked fuss. Frothing. White caps waved to us from Toronto Harbour, Hamilton Harbour and Mexico Bay as we drove along to our destination in Sackets Harbour. We stopped State-side to wave-watch at Sandy Point Beach. I wonder if they'll have to rename it, considering that there didn't seem to be any sand left. Blown away. I kept my eyes 7/8ths closed because the grains of sand were blinding, pummeled into my eyeballs by 60 mph winds. .
So here we are on the South Shore of Lake Ontario again: 50 Point, Pultneyville, Sackets Harbour, Cape Vincent.
Yet all these signs saying 'Welcome to North Country' when we are actually south. It's very disorienting.
We're staying at a B&B with a sheltered view of Sackets Harbour. Beautiful spot, beautiful house. The building first went up in 1818, following the War of 1812, and was refurbished again in the early 1930's. Our hostess was explaining how she and her husband have lovingly restored this Georgian house. 40 windows all replaced, the roof, the floors, the kitchen, the six bathrooms. Major reno. It sounds like they could have filmed at least two episodes of 'This Old House.'
Lucky for us, we are one of the first customers at the B&B - it has only been open for three weeks so the hosts haven't yet tired of their company. When we returned from dinner the first night, the Ripasso we'd brought along was sitting in the room, along with Ghirardelli chocolates, two red wine glasses and a corkscrew just begging to be put into service. Next morning, breakfast was set in an elegant dining room, with china and crystal knife rests. (What are those? I asked. Knife rests. Why, of course! How practical, I marveled, wondering how I have managed so long without crystal knife rests).