Stratford Get Away

This year's trip to Stratford was so enjoyable! Perfect weather for walking through the park and to the theatre.

A great stay at Edison's boutique hotel, comfortable quarters, great service, and a wonderful river view from the Swan Suite.

Restaurants we tried this year did not disappoint. A very generous and tasty breakfast Reuben at Whatever 75 + new flavours and great cocktails at the South African resto Braii House.

And of course, the plays!

• Something Rotten, first appeared 2015 on Broadway
• La Cage Aux Folles, first appeared 1983 on Broadway
• Salesman in China (September) Stratford, World Premiere - my favourite of the three!
  

  
  
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Thanksgiving Colours in Matawatchan, Chelsea and Old Montreal

We are so blessed in this part of the world with amazing fall colours.  Long drives are a pleasure this time of year and a perfect time to do some exploring.

Lois and Mark were hosting Thanksgiving on the Hill in Matawatchan and we had an absolutely wonderful time soaking up the autumn vibes. The views from their place are absolutely incredible, and we saw deer and wild turkeys right on the doorstep. Sunset was beautiful and the night sky full of stars. Lois and Mark are such gracious hosts. Dinner was wonderful, and it was a pleasure to see everyone who could make it. 

Penny suggested that afterward she and Alex and Rob and I share a visit to the Nordik spa in Chelsea. I've never been to an outdoor spa like this before, but this was the third trip for her. What a treat to soak in hot whirlpools, plunge into cold pools, and float in saltwater caverns. There were also a restaurants, yurts, outdoor firepits, and quiet rooms for yoga and meditation. Wow! I could definitely go back for more, but next time might pick a weekday and not a busy Thanksgiving long weekend. 

Although we could have eaten at the spa, we headed over to the Chelsea Gastro Pub for a delicious meal and  cocktails. We also shared overnight accommodations at Lofts du Village. It was such a great excursion and time to enjoy making happy new memories with Alex and Penny. 

Rob and I went on for a two night stay in the heart of Old Montreal, but stopped off to visit Tony and Mary first.  They suggested a driving route that took us through some very picturesque towns along Hi-way 417: Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue, Dorval and Pointe-Clair. Some very historic buildings, lovely gardens and parks. Very scenic drive.

We arrived in Old Montreal with ample time to check in at Lofts du Vieux-Port. This was a bit of a splurge, but staying in the heart of things meant we could relax and not worry about driving and parking. After dropping off our bags we walked and walked and enjoyed every minute of playing flaneur/flaneuse. So much history, architecture, restaurants, and galleries to soak in. 

Before heading westward home, we continued our road trip with a stop at St-Viateur Bagel and then to Mount Royale for a view of the city from the top of Mount Royale.

A memorable roadtrip and the perfect time of year to play the tourist in this part of the country.

 

Wolfe Island Get Away

A visit to Wolfe Island via the car ferry on the last weekend in May made for a great get away. Laura and Peter had the glamping tent all set up and it was the perfect place for an afternoon nap after a walk in the forest and through the fields.  

The theme for the Epi adventures was Live Fire Cooking, and what a treat!

The day we arrived, we rolled out dough Laura had prepared for bagels and then put them to rest overnite in the fridge. The next morning we boiled them and then baked them in the bread oven where they were toasted to perfection. Cheeses I brought to the table included a delicious artisinal chevre of beet and horseradish, Wensleydale and le Pleine Lune. The best bagels I've ever had in my life! Enjoyed with a beer. 

As we set out to prepare the dinner, we trimmed some of the sides and did away with appetizers, knowing we would need to save some room in our stomachs for the ample feast. Even still, we took a pause before gathering around the fire to make s'mores. 

I had decided to make this treat because I'd never had s'mores. Turned out Kaarina was also deprived. What a gooey sugar rush it was - I opted for some gigantic marshmallows for roasting instead of regular size and they turned out to be a bit too big for the graham crackers, but quite fun to cook over the open fire. I also used Skor chocolate bars instead of dark chocolate wafers. A fun dessert to prepare and it certainly fit with the theme of live fire cooking.

Live Fire Cooking Menu

Main - Sauteed Mushrooms (Laura) Slow Cooked Lam Shoulder with Lamb and Cumin served with roasted poto, eggplant and asparagus (Kaarina)

Cheese course - Brie soaked in Calvados and melted over an open fire (Diane)

Dessert - S'mores (Diane)

Road Trip!

Booked a get-away to Sauble Beach followed by a double bill at Stratford.

Sauble is the second longest freshwater beach in Ontario, with seven straight kilometers to walk along in the sand.  The iconic sign, the sunset, the beachfront eateries and shops are essentially the same since our last visit 20+ years ago. The Lucky Strike, the cottage we used to rent, is still there, although it has new siding and paint. However, now you have to pay $30/day for parking near the beach. Also a sign of changing times were lots of big Canadian flags waving for freedom.

We stayed two nights, and each night Rob and I waited on the beach for the magic moment when the sun would dip into the horizon and disappear into dusk. I love those Lake Huron sunsets and sandy beaches! The rhythmic sound of waves.

It was a bit hard to find accommodations, but I found and booked the Sauble Lodge Motor Inn two weeks before we left. At $200/night I expected more from the "standard room."  Sooo small, without a coffee station. It was clean, though, and a short walk to the beach. We also explored Bruce Peninsula and nearby Tobermory, Singing Sands Fen, and Bruce Alvar Nature Reserve.

Meandered through some other beach towns. Southhampton, Port Elgin, Port Stanley.

Maybe next year we could find a cottage big enough for Alex and Penny and Rob and I, and just hang out for a week or two.

We stayed at The Strat, a B & B in Stratford for the next two nights. Fantastic breakfast!Walking distance to the theatre and a nice big ol' porch to play backgammon after the shows. We biked the trails and city streets, but it really isn't a bike-friendly town. Driving to nearby small towns was a pleasure, past cornfields grown high. Mennonite country is close by, and we saw more than a few buggies.

J'ai trop mangé

Wow! voyage fantastique!

My friends the epi-tourists planned a trip to Montreal and I managed to finagle my way along. At first it sounded too extravagant, so I dithered. Fortunately Kaarina, Laura, and Caroline are an understanding bunch so welcomed my change of mind. Also luckily, the Via ticket agent found me a seat with them, so we were able to enjoy a picnique enroute.

Being in Montreal felt like being in Europe. Mon français est pauvre so it was wonderful to have the fully bilingual Caroline there to help us navigate and translate.

We stayed at a great Air B&B in the Montreal Plateau neighbourhood, and managed to fit side trips in to Notre Dame, the Jardin, the Marche, and even get some fashion shopping in... however the real purpose of the trip was to eat and enjoy. Which we did. J'ai trop mangé.

Breakfasts were at the Air B&B. One morning fresh eggs that Caroline had brought from her "girls," another morning St - Viateur bagels with salmon carpaccio fresh from the market.

Otherwise we were checking out the local restaurants. This trip brought lots of new experiences and tastes on the menus. I am not an epicurean, just epicurious. I am no restaurant critic but I do love food, and trying new tastes, and seeing what tastes go together well - all the better with friends. I dine at fine establishments probably one or two times a year, favouring bacchanals with foodie friends to dinners out. Mainly I object to paying too much for the alcohol.

The WoW factor for restaurants starts with great-tasting and great looking food, but it is of course, so much more. Years ago I had a friend in the restaurant business and she said when you opened an establishment, you needed to concentrate on two of three things... it was impossible to have all three of these: ambience, service, and price (or value for money). That was back in the eighties, though, and when I asked Chef Laura whether she had heard the maxim she said no. I think times have changed, and people want and expect all three.

True nourishment feeds you on many levels, so I also have another requirement - how I feel after the meal. Within the hour, and the next day.

These are my ratings, 5 stars for my experiences, based on the criteria above: food; ambience; service; value; after-effects.

Restaurants

Iberica ****

Loved these little tapas! Especially the oxtail croquette served on an actual oxtail. The waitress was patient with our questions and attentive; the ambience was ok but a tv was on, which although in Spanish totally detracted from the experience.  Lots of choice and a good wine selection. We enjoyed our morsels with cava.

Joe Beef *****
Number 3 on Canada's Best. Only 30 seats in this establishment! I counted myself lucky to get a reservation for a late Thursday evening, 6 weeks in advance. Definitely my favourite meal of the trip. Great vibe and a wonderful experience - the best service of any of the spots we visited, with Andie taking her time to speak to the details on the chalkboard and answer questions about preparation. The chef briefs front of house every day about ingredients and dishes which is why they are so well informed. Gorgeous plating and perfection in the preparation. I regret not having room for dessert.  We didn't go for the Lobster pasta or Beef, but throughly enjoyed the appetizers (mushrooms and pomp blanc gres champ au champions + quail besesier brelots and sauce rouge) and main (lamb brisquet). I have no idea how such a small restaurant manages to have such a huge choice of offerings, it is a magic trick! One of the best value meals, too, as Laura and I shared our plates. I will definitely return and might even be able to talk Rob into accompanying me.

Maison Christian Faure ***
We had lunch at this patisserie - of course it was the dessert we came for! The server brought a plate over for us to choose what we wanted. Talk about a tough choice! We lingered over tea before heading back out in the rain. Really delicious, great service, but a bit pricey. I also found all the hard gleaming surfaces to lack a certain welcoming.

Restaraunt L'Original  ****
Loved the ambience - very early Canadian and woodsy, complete with a canoe used for the bar. Quirky embellishments in the decor. Excellent food and fine service. My favourite thing about this meal was the original preparation of bone marrow. A bone, sliced open, with pickled sashimi and red wine sauce. Deeply satisfying. If I ever return I would skip the wine and substitute a cocktail. Aside from this, no regrets.

Caribou Gourmand ** .5
Where else could you find caribou and seal tartare on offer? Who wouldn't be curious? It was an experience however I wouldn't say the flavour was exceptional and the texture was like liver. Having satisfied this curiosity I wouldn't likely order it again. I ordered the wild boar chop with polenta as my main - it was delicious at the start, but before I had even finished the meal I was feeling over-stuffed and a bit queasy. I took my leftovers to go and was astounded by how heavy the little package was. Extremely tasty however lost marks for the after-effects (just how much butter was there??) and remarkably poor service. They also didn't have the wine on their own list, or the dessert that was on the menu (although we were on the first seating). Highly disappointing, however this was one of the most anticipated meals so perhaps I'm being a bit too harsh that it didn't live up to expectations.


Jardin Botani Restaurant ****
The lunch counter at the botanical gardens was one of my favourite restaurant experiences of the trip. The counter service was quite friendly. Not only were we able to eat outside in a beautiful setting in the sun, the salad and sandwiches were colourful, nourishing, tasty, great value, and left me feeling entirely sated. Just dizzy from a fine spring day.

Cocktail Bars
Cocktail bars do not have entirely the same criteria for me as restaurants. I don't expect great value - I want a bit of theatre + great service + great vibes/fun + lots of choice So maximum four stars.

Flyjin ***
I thought this was Flying Gin when the epi-tourists were saying the name and so was a tad disappointed it wasn't all about gin cocktails, being such a devoted fan. The Queen Bee concoction, my second drink, was the best - but that is likely because as Kaarina says, anything with Veuve Clicquot has to be good. We sat right at the bar and chatted up the bartender, who was entirely entertaining.

La Distillerie ****
Best drink menu ever! Lots to choose from: A Yoda cocktail that looked just like the master, limes placed for ears; a phenomenal Caesar. A server that suggested they leave out the sugar for someone and add it in later if required. Fantastic bartender, dressed up geisha style and rocking the cocktail shakers.  Good thing we had reservations elsewhere otherwise I could easily have overstayed my welcome.

Nova Scotia

We traveled to Nova Scotia the first week of August for a family reunion on Rob's side.

Most of the time we spent in Halifax, a short walk from the harbour.

Tall ships were in! We managed to visit these gorgeous boats four straight days, including the parade the day of their departure. What a view! The layout of the harbour meant we were only a few hundred metres from the ships under sail, as they dipped their flags and shot cannons. More than 25 vessels took part in the regatta. Favourites were the German Alexander Von Humboldt II (3 mast bark), Spanish El Galeon (galleon), American Eagle (cutter), and of course the Canadian Bluenose (schooner). One of the highlights was being on board the U.S. Coast Guard training vessel 'The Eagle' just as they were orienting young recruits: expectant, hopeful, scared, confident expressions in a sea of faces.


The Bank of Nova Scotia on Hollis was impressive, with massive gates, bronze embellishments and a soaring ceiling. We never did manage to get inside during banking hours, but it's still open for business.

The Maritime Museum was full of exhibits. A major portion of the space was given to the Halifax Explosion that occurred in 1917. I stood for a long while in front of a window with a small telegraph key. Vince Coleman died as he was using it to warn a coming train of the pending explosion, "Hold up the train. Ammunition ship afire in harbor making for Pier 6 and will explode. Guess this will be my last message. Good-bye boys."[6]  Exhibits of wrecks at sea were fascinating.

The works of Maud Lewis were on display at the gallery, including the tiny house she lived in while she produced her work. Her paintings wallpaper the tiny room. It took hours of effort to remove the layers of wood smoke, nicotine and grime to return them to the surface. Such bright colours and cheerful subjects, painted by someone in pain, poverty and an abusive relationship. How she managed is truly an inspiration.

Downtown Halifax, there was construction everywhere and it wasn't easy to drive around, so we walked. Not much luck with restaurants. When I asked one server how long we would need to wait for a table, they said, "How should I know?" and I suggested they might be able to tell by whether the customer had been served or started their meal. At another place they had us wait more than a half hour for the fish and chips, but forgot one of the four orders; the batter was chewy and fish was mushy. Uggh. Best meals were at Murphy's the Cable Wharf Restaurant, where I had lobster and on another visit, bacon wrapped scallops. The Chickenburger, outside Halifax in Bedford was probably the most fun to visit, with its retro diner feel and neon chicken blazing on the roof.


There were fireworks every night we were there as part of Canada 150 celebrations, and we saw one of the best shows ever, that lasted more than twenty minutes and filled the night sky with smoke and colour.

We managed a day trip to Peggy's Cove. The further you got from the parking lot, the fewer the number of tourists. We spent at least an hour on the rocks gazing at the sea, and watching the waves crash and white foam froth. We also joined a small boat tour for a bumpy ride along the coast.

Lunenburg was lovely and not too busy during our visit. Colourful houses, quirky galleries, and a row of restaurants facing the sea. The Bluenose II wasn't in port though, she was in Halifax Harbour. We returned to the capital in time to watch the schooner sail out to return with the entire fleet  to Lunenburg.

Weekend get-away

Rob and I spent the weekend in Ottawa and Quebec, getting together with old friends he's known since high school and I've known now for almost thirty years.

Many of his friends are newly retired. Seeing them adjust to new rhythms makes my own retirement planning seem a lot less theoretical. Although Monday morning sometimes comes quickly for me, or a work week seems overly long, mostly I still enjoy working for a living. Which is a good thing, seeing as how I'll need to keep it up for another decade or so :-)

Of course, there was great food! Friday night, we arrived a bit late for dinner but that didn't stop me from enjoying leftovers.  To try at home:  pan-roasted chicken breasts with sage sauce (from The New Best Recipe) risotto, and  tapinade rolled in phyllo. Saturday night: prime rib, Yorkshire pudding, delicious cheeses and port for dessert. I won't have to eat all week!

It was extremely cold and the canal wasn't in great shape, so instead of skating we chose to hang out Saturday afternoon at the Canadian Museum of Nature.

What an amazing planet we live on!

The Scream

The Bird Gallery dedicates a whole floor to thoughtful exploration. It was a bit like visiting an aviary, with a display that included samples of bird song, looks at nests and habitats. I learned about some new Canadian species, including an owl that burrows in the ground in the prairies. I also found out that I weigh about the same as 4 wild turkeys, or 5,000 hummingbirds.

The Nature Unleashed special exhibit was humbling. I hope I never experience tornadoes, earthquakes, hurricanes, volcanoes or floods first-hand. Awesome beauty, to be sure... Edvard Munch's famous painting, The Scream, is a fairly accurate depiction of what the skies of Norway looked like after the eruption of Krakatoa.

The  Earth Gallery showcased minerals, gems, and semi-precious stones. Natural, exquisite sculptures that were works of art in themselves: amber, amethyst, lazurite. Rocks that glowed in the dark, and others that seemed to bloom with pillows and plumes.

I could have hung out in the Water Gallery a lot longer, staring at footage of 2000 belugas gathering in the Arctic.  They are such beautiful creatures. Unfortunately, the Wild Beluga Cam that was set up was blown away by a storm and I can't find the footage on You Tube to share, so you'll just have to visit the Museum of Nature to see the film for yourself (which is still a whole lot easier than trekking to see them in the Arctic).

Aging well

September is one of my favourite months.  It is my birthday!  And harvest.  Such a great time of year.  A perfect time to tour vineyards and contemplate the art of aging well.

During our stay at Niagara on the Lake, we happily toured  five different wineries:  Peller, Inniskillen, Strewn, Riversview, and Rief.

Peller was where Rob and I enjoyed the Estate Tasting, right in the vineyard, sampling the grapes and tasting the wine as it was poured into the glass:  merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and meritage.

Only the two of us had signed up, so we had the undivided attention of our guide as he escorted us through the fruit ripening and terraced in the field.

The gardener in me appreciated how the roses stood sentry to indicate the presence of aphids on the vine, how inconspicuous the grape blossoms were, how rocks had been tumbled under vines to prolong the heat of a summer's day, how the number of pips in a fruit or the shape of a leaf could be used to identify one grape against another; how bunches were culled to intensify flavours.

Merlot was surprisingly thick-skinned and the cab franc even more so.

blossom on cab sauv grapes

An earnest young man gave the tour, a second generation vintner going to sommelier school; obviously knowledgeable about green details, like the pheromone strips dangling on the wires.  In his early twenties, he was learning the serious business and exact science of wine.  Thankfully, he was also generous with his pours and divulged that one of the wineries in Niagara has recently attempted an amarone, with some small success.

It would be fun to go on a poetry of wine tour, though, and have a passionate soul quote great literature, verse and mystical qualities of wine.  Maybe I could start assembling passages?

I loved the cool cellars, and seeing the hundreds of casks laid to age so respectably in their French or American oak.  Imagining the barrels being coopered, turned, and toasted to release their flavours.

I tasted one of the nicest glasses of the tour in Rief's sensory garden.  The space was been planted in collaboration with Richter's herbs to showcase the distinct colours and aromas of different wines.  Talk about the perfect setting to savour a glass of first growth pinot noir before hopping back on our bikes to continue our tour...

Rob and I picked up several bottles of ice wine along the way.  I admit I am a bit dubious about Ontario reds, but ended up buying a few bottles of award winning Cab Sauv from Peller.  It tasted of sun, of standing in a field on a late summer's day, and of course, of aging well.

Niagara On the Lake

I was dreading being stuck 'on the Wall',
but it was a great view.   

Just back from a four day foray to Niagara on the Lake. I was wondering why I've never been, given its vineyards, gardens, restaurants and theaters. We usually sail East, and this is definitely the furthest West I've been via the boat. To be frank, I was expecting rough water, lots of crowds competing for slips and boats rafted four deep on the dock at Niagara on the Lake Sailing Club.   Instead, it was pretty calm - nothing like two weeks ago when Rob went with friends and returned to the boat to find one of the fenders exploded into tiny bits, with dishes strewn along the floor of the inside cabin.  We laced our lines with some snubbers, so maybe that helped to cut back on the bouncing. Finding a slip on a finger dock was no problem, but then again, it was after Labour Day.

We drove our bikes every day, rain or shine, to admire the scenery.  There was lots to see, with historical forts, gorgeous front yard gardens, and the charming Old Towne all within a relatively short pedal.  No shortage of shops and galleries if you are looking for places to spend money.

And of course, what is a trip to Niagara on the Lake without visits to wineries and taking in a few plays?  I have plans to blog in more detail on these subjects so I won't say much more, except that I can't believe I put off visiting Niagara on the Lake for so many years!

warm enough to grow Monkey Trees at Niagara on the Lake!

Eating Out?

We ate at four different restaurants over our four day stay.  

The absolute worst meal was breakfast at Stage Coach Family Restaurant: mushy sausage, over-cooked egg, underdone hash browns and to add insult to injury, the service was poor and the meal was over-priced. My experience is the exact opposite of most of the entries on Trip Advisor, so maybe it was the cook's day off and they hiked the menu prices as a prank.  

Yummiest lunch out was the ice wine pulled pork at Peller Estates, credited to chef Jason Parsons of City Line fame.  Here, they serve a seven course meal paired with the winery's vintages. I was tempted by the Chef's Table, but you need to book ahead, so maybe another time.  

Best breakfast and dinner that we tried, hands down, were served at North America's oldest Golf Course:  a stunning view, great food, and friendly service. At dinner I had the tasty Prix Fixe, 3 course meal for $35.  I thought it was a nice touch that the plates with a bunch of locally grown, in season Coronation grapes. 

Sea to Sky Country

Hi-Way 99 travels along between the sea and mountains.  Today Rob and I rented a car and travelled along the route between Vancouver and Whistler.  When we left, the morning sky was clouded over and looked like rain, but the weather took a turn for the better and the sun came out to glisten on the water and paint the mountain tops.  A picture perfect day!

When we got to Whistler we rode in the gondola.  At least half an hour to the top of Whistler!  I thought we were already high, but the car kept ascending and ascending.  Incredible.  Then we rode in a glass-bottomed gondola to the Blackcomb peak.  It felt like flying, up close enough to touch the clouds.

peak-to-peak experience

glass-bottom gondola

Sky to Sea Country

Shannon Falls

Howe Sound