Saturday, April 16, 2022

Full Egg Moon - April 2022


Other names for the April full moon: Pink Moon, Growing Moon, Seed Moon.

Eggs are potent symbols of new beginnings, birth, fertility, and resurrection. 

Easter eggs have become part of the Christian celebration, but their symbolism dates back at least to Egyptian times. 

According to food historian Sam Bilton:
Throughout history, people across the world have given each other eggs at spring festivals to mark the seasons. Early Christians in Mesopotamia dyed eggs in the period after Easter. The practice was adopted by the Orthodox Churches, and from there it spread into Western Europe. Eggs represent new life and rebirth, and it’s thought that this ancient custom was absorbed into Easter celebrations.

During Lent, when Christians fasted to mark Jesus’ time in the wilderness, eggs were one of the foods that people weren’t allowed to eat (incidentally, this is why we make pancakes on Shrove Tuesday). So when Easter Sunday came around, tucking into an egg was a real treat.

Various traditions and superstitions sprang up around the egg at Easter. Eggs laid on Good Friday were said to turn into diamonds if they were kept for 100 years. Some thought that eggs cooked on Good Friday and eaten on Easter would promote fertility and prevent sudden death, and it became the custom to have your eggs blessed before you ate them. It was also said that if your egg had two yolks, you’d soon become rich. In Devon and Cornwall, people used to play a game like conkers with their eggs, hitting them against each other until one of them cracked.


According to Scientific American:
  • The Phoenix was adopted as a Christian symbol in the first century AD. It appears on funeral stones in early Christian art, churches, religious paintings, and stonework. The egg from which it rose has become our Easter egg. As with many symbols, the Easter egg has continued to shift. When the Lenten fast was adopted in the third and fourth centuries, observant Christians abstained from dairy products, including milk, cheese, butter, and eggs. In England, on the Saturday before Lent, it was common practice for children to go from door to door to beg for eggs—a last treat before the fast began.

  • Ancient Egyptians believed in a primeval egg from which the sun god hatched. Alternatively, the sun was sometimes discussed as an egg itself, laid daily by the celestial goose, Seb, the god of the earth. The Phoenix is said to have emerged from this egg. The egg is also discussed in terms of a world egg, molded by Khnum from a lump of clay on his potter's wheel.

    In the Zoroastrian religion, the creation myth tells of an ongoing struggle between the principles of good and evil. During a lengthy truce of several thousand years, Evil hurls himself into an abyss and Good lays an egg, which represents the universe with the earth suspended from the vault of the sky at the midway point between where good and evil reside. Evil pierces the egg and returns to earth, and the two forces continue their battle.

    In Findland, Luonnotar, the Daughter of Nature floats on the waters of the sea, minding her own business when an eagle arrives, builds a nest on her knee, and lays several eggs. After a few days, the eggs begin to burn and Luonnotar jerks her knee away, causing the eggs to fall and break. The pieces form the world as we know it: the upper halves form the skies, the lower the earth, the yolks become the sun, and the whites become the moon.

  • In China, there are several legends that hold a cosmic egg at their center, including the idea that the first being or certain people were born of eggs. For example, the Palangs trace their ancestry to a Naga princess who laid three eggs, and the Chin will not kill the king crow because it laid the original Chin egg from which they emerged.

  • Hinduism makes a connection between the content of the egg and the structure of the universe: for example, the shell represents the heavens, the white the air, and the yolk the earth. The Chandogya Upanishads describes the act of creation in terms of the breaking of an egg.






Saturday, April 9, 2022

Amaro and Bar Revel


On a recent trip to Bar Ravel, Cynar and Grapefruit were listed as a Highball combination. 

Curious, I asked about it and the bartender mentioned it was distilled with artichokes. Really?? I also wanted something that didn't have as high an alcohol content as the cocktail I'd just finished. 16.5% alcohol? Sold.


 I ordered that, and Rob had a Compari and soda. Both were so refreshing!

The bartender remarked both were amaros. I made a note so I could look it up later.

Amaro is a herbal liqueur whose name in Italian means 'bitter.' According to A Bar Above, it is made from infusing a base alcohol (grape brandy, neutral spirits, or wine) with a proprietary blend of herbs, roots, flowers, and spices. The concoction is aged in casks or bottles for various amounts of time, and the finished product can be anywhere from 16-40% alcohol by volume. Its origins reach back to ancient Rome, where food and nobles would imbibe herb-infused wine for its restorative properties. In the middle ages, monks swapped wine for alcohol; by the 1800s, amaro was being sold in pharmacies and hawked by peddlers as a health tonic across Italy.

Reading up on amari/amaros in The Drunken Botanist, I learned there is a particular gene allele that makes some people highly sensitive to bitter tastes, while others can't even detect it unless it's at high concentrations. This might explain why some people love Italian bitters and others can't stand them. Actually, I'm not sure whether I love the taste, or just the idea of Italian bitters... recipes guarded by families for centuries, herbal concoctions, lower concentrations of alcohol, cool labels and posters. 





I recently picked up Fernet-Branca as an ingredient for making the Toronto cocktail, intrigued by the description of 27 herbs, roots and spices; with licorice a predominant note. Definitely a distinctive taste.

So I have a collection of amari now on the shelf, ready for a tasting: Fernet Branca (licorice); Cynar (artichoke); Compari (oranges, rhubarb, ginseng); Aperol (rhubarb, bitter orange).

To try: a negroni with cynar used instead of compari.

****

Bar Revel was quite the field trip!

I started with a Norman Foster (Bowmore and Ballantyne scotch, Raval Amaro, garnished with banana); Rob had a Magic City (Manzanillo Sherry, Wray and Nephew Rum, raspberry, lemon and absinthe).

The drinks menu provided plenty of inspiration for future Friday night cocktails to try at home. While it was quite the treat to watch a pro at work behind the bar, with all the special syrups and taps, it's a little too expensive to partake on a regular basis. Our 35th anniversary was the perfect excuse!

Festive garnishes and fancy treats like freshly toasted Marcona Almonds, marinated olives and Jamon Serrano helped make the experience memorable. Maybe something to add to the Friday night ritual?

Norman Foster

Magic City







Friday, April 8, 2022

Happy 35th Anniversary!

35 Years! 

Usually we don't celebrate, but this year I was reminded of the date when I had to share the wedding certificate for pension paperwork. 

35 Years! Wow! Where did the time go? 

Rob and I had a wonderful day of celebration, spending the morning in Mazzoleni concert hall listening to Tchaikovsky and  Rachmaninoff, and then stopping by Bar Ravel for tapas and cocktails.


When we got home, we had surprise waiting for us - Alex had by laid out champagne glasses, prosecco and colourful flowers while we were away. There was a cake and some chocolate with 'Base to 23' written on it. I guess the story of how we met stayed in Alex' memory, me on the radio calling out to Rob who was driving truck 23. 


After a simple lasagna dinner we went down to BPYC for couple of hours for an event to welcome new members. When we arrived home, more flowers waiting for us - this time from Amita.




Sunday, March 27, 2022

Ramen!


Someone mentioned the Japanese TV series Midnight Diner, as a pleasure to watch. I like its bite-sized portraits of the nocturnal diners who visit and enjoy the Master's dishes. The food looks delicious and simple recipes are presented in each episode. Google Midnight Diner Recipes for tens of thousands results for easy, tasty recipes to enjoy at home. 

Food to be enjoyed together with friends.

Which is why I was inspired to pick Japanese Comfort Food for an Epitourist theme.  I chose ramen, since I so enjoy a bowl of the rich broth. 

Turns out this 'simple' meal is quite complex. What I had thought would be a fairly easy dish to prepare is a multi-day affair. Looking up recipes, it didn't take long to become daunted by the advice of ramen chefs and the multiple processes involved. 

It did seem a bit overwhelming.

  • Where to get ingredients like dashi, kelp, bonito flakes, pork necks?
  • What about the different ramen broths? Was there really a difference?
  • What is tare? How do shoyu, shio, and miso tares differ?
  • How to best prepare fresh noodles, chashu (pork), Ramen eggs?
  • How does it all come together in the perfect bowl?


Like any journey, this began with a first step. To J-Town and the Japanese grocery, where I was able to pick up the dried kelp and bonito flakes. The Chinese grocery on Gerrard had the chicken carcasses and pork necks at very good prices.

Two different sources helped guide me through the process, where deep consideration is provided to every ingredient. 

I decided to make three different ramen broths so I could taste the difference between them. While preparing the broths I was surprised that there was absolutely no salt added. Also, after the bones were boiled and initially blanched, the water was discarded to get rid of distasteful elements like blood and seek a 'cleaner' taste. The bones are then boiled for hours in the aromatics, producing rich and flavourful results. The stocks bubbled and thickened and shimmered and I sampled them as they improved in taste and texture. When cooled, the stocks jiggled with all the collagen.

There were two different methods for cooking the pork belly for chashu. One in the stock, one in a separate pot. I went the route Shihoko recommended with a separate pot, boiling the meat for one hour without any seasoning, then discarding the water and boiling again in the marinade of soy sauce, sake, sugar and honey - avoiding any mirin due to its tightening effect. After another hour boiling, the meat can stay overnight in the sauce to absorb additional flavours. The next day, the chashu sauce can be reduced for the tare and the meat thinly sliced to be ready for assembly.

The Ramen Eggs or Ajitsuke Tamago, are also prepared ahead: soft boiled and then marinaded overnight in soy sauce, sake, and mirin.

Rob and I invited Liz and Darcy for dinner to debut my first attempt at making ramen. Curious, I designed a tasting presentation to compare the different broths and tares so our palates could compare them, and so we could also confer with each other's palates.

We had a few different options for the noodles themselves. After all the effort that went into the other ingredients, it seemed a shame to use prepackaged instant noodles, so Rob picked up some fresh frozen from Bare Market on the Danforth.

Onto the tasting........

There was definitely a difference between the broths: chicken; chicken with Japanese dashi; and tonkotsu (pork bones). They were all seriously good! Tonkotsu to me had a sweetness to it, the chicken with Japanese dashi had more flavour from the sea. Both Tonkotsu and dashi stocks had lip smacking umami.

The tares (also made ahead) were quite distinct from one another, but all had green onion, garlic and ginger as common aromatics. I laid them on the table so we could each choose what we wanted in our ramen bowls.
  • shio (dashi of kelp, bonito flake, shitaki mushroom + sake + miren). no soy sauce so a clear tare, but still quite salty
  • reduced chashu sauce (no mirin, but otherwise shoyu flavours)
  • shoyu (soy sauce, mirin, sake)
  • miso (miso, peanutbutter, scallion)
Liz, Darcy and Rob all chose the reduced chashu tare, I picked the miso.

Then it was off to the kitchen to assemble the ramen bowls. Everything was ready to go but the last minute blanching of the sprouts and the cooking of the ramen noodles. Tare in the bottom of the bowl, followed by the broth, then the noodles, then the blanched sprouts, sliced chashu, Ramen egg, and a generous handful of spring onion. Lesson learned: the sequence is important! Also, try not to forget the freshly grated garlic on top.

The bowls were brought to the table and we all enjoyed slurping the noodles and savouring the pork. Chilled Nigori sake served alongside.

The days spent preparing the meal added to its anticipation, and I truly enjoyed every mouthful. I hope our guests enjoyed this 'simple' meal as much as I did!

The next day for lunch, Rob and I tried the Tonkotsu broth with miso tare, chashu, and soft boiled egg. Another delicious combination. 

I froze a little of the chicken-dashi broth so I could prepare a similar tasting for the Epitourists in April. I can understand why there are so many self-confessed Ramen Nerds on the planet! There's even a Facebook group for Hardcore Ramen Nerds.




Friday, March 18, 2022

Holi - Full Moon March 2022


Holi is celebrated at the end of winter, on the last full moon day of the Hindu luni-solar calendar month marking the spring, making the date vary with the lunar cycle.

The Festival of Spring, the triumph of good over evil, a celebration of colour.

I have long admired the festival. This year Rob and I celebrated at Alex' and Penny's with Amita. Penny made a cocktail in honour of the holi-day, festive with the purple color of Empress Gin and a beautiful circle of lemon... star anise and clove, and tonic.


I hope our celebration of Holi grows in the coming years to include the Holika bonfire and the Rangwali Holi free-for-all of colour and feasting the next day.

A celebration of new beginnings.