Visiting Hilo

Lava tube

A few people in Kona, when they heard we were headed to Hilo, said we wouldn’t find much there. “A couple hours in Volcanoes Park and you’ll be done.” Many visitors don’t venture into the Crater Corridor because it takes at least three or four hours to make your way down to the sea and back again, but I’m so glad we did.


We were staying in a place right next to the park, so were able to return two nights in a row to watch lava dance in the crater and marvel at the number of stars overhead. The volcano spume was extremely active and the lava lake high, which even brought the locals out to watch.

We came to Hawaii for the beaches and volcanoes, and also for the tropical plants. Our Hilo B&B was right in the rainforest, surrounded by green. We visited the Hawaii Botanical Garden, and spent half a day ogling the anthurium, orchids, bromeliads, air plants, tropical palms, the lily pond, Cook’s pine. Everything so green, with palms and trees towering overhead and the sound of ocean waves beating on the shore.

It turned out Hilo had a guitar and ukulele store. Once I held one beautiful koa wood instrument I wanted it instantly. The Kanile 'a concert ukulele is now in my possession and inspiring me to become a better player.

Late in the afternoon, we still wanted to see the tide pools at Kapaho. Unfortunately, we got lost and took a wrong turn, and found ourselves at the end of the earth. Literally. In Kaimu Bay I was able to stand on land younger than me, something on my wishlist.

Big waves were crashing on the rocky shore and Rob and I watched a young red-headed girl approach them, seeming determined to jump in. She took a few steps and a wave hit her, knocking her down and tumbling her right into the water. She looked like a mermaid in the sea foam.

Big Island, Kona, Mahai’ula Bay

Getting to this white sand beach required a drive along an untended road across a lava field, and then a twenty minute walk over a rocky path. 

A series of abandoned, deserted buildings on the shore are what’s left behind of Kalahikiola, an isolated fishing community established here in the 1880s. We counted four big turtles poking their heads above water, looking for a place to come ashore.

Despite it being out of the way, there were about twenty people playing in the waves, and some of us snorkelling. Rob saw flounder and one of the turtles checked him out from a comfortable distance. When I went in, I saw colourful tropical fish I later identified as bullethead parrotfish and convict tang. A crab or two. And a day octopus - if it hadn’t moved, I wouldn’t have spotted the creature at all, its colours blended so perfectly with the sandy bottom. Multiple legs gave it thrust for its curious ballet.

National Volcanoes Park

When we drove up to the park meeting centre, two female park rangers were giving ukulele lessons. I talked them into posing with me and my Scarborough Ukulele t shirt for the ukesters back home.

Another ranger was explaining about how volcanoes were formed, so we listened in. The geologic explanation was interesting, with magma bursting through the crust of the earth. The guide added that science has proven the ancient stories to be true.

Namakaokahai followed Pele throughout the Hawaiian Island chain, until Pele finally settled in the high mountains of Mauna Loa, which proved too high for the ocean’s waves to reach. Pele gained confidence here and engaged in battles with Namakaokahai. To this day, Pele’s eruptions from Hawaii Island’s volcanoes flow thick and hot till they reach the sea -- symbolizing the match in strength between the sisters of fire and water.

Just as the legend states, the northwestern islands of Kauai and Oahu are older than the southeastern islands of Maui and Hawaii.

I love the fact that new land is being created every day in Hawaii, and that you can stand in places that are younger than you are.

It turns out our visit was on a remarkably clear day, as it is not often visitors can see the top of Mauna Loa. We loved exploring the natural wonders in the park, including steam vents, craters, lava tubes, lava flows and sea arches. A list mist brought a perfect rainbow to our side.

The jungle was incredibly lush, and we had the good fortune of coming across a native guide explaining uses of the Ki plant: making clothing, providing food and medicine, keeping bad spirits away.

Our B&B is just around the corner from the park, so we went back at night for the spectacular view. It looked like a city on fire.

Big Island - South Point

Often in life it is the journey and not the destination. With Papakolea (Green Sands) Beach it is both.

The drive from our place took us to South Point, which lays claim to being the furthest point south in the United States. We stopped to admire the vista from high on the volcano, and then drove down into the valley. In one magical brief moment, we saw a rainbow and whales sounding.

At the end of South Point Road, natives offer rides to the final destination. We opted to walk the two and a half miles, and it turned into a long hike over desolate terrain. Reddish clay dusted with green sand, with dry sedges lining pathways. A light drizzle kept us cool along the way, but we arrived drenched about an hour later. 

To access the beach itself you climb down a ladder and steep trail. It looked precarious, but I hadn't come this far to stand at the top and look down at a beach. It wasn't really all that difficult, after all.

We enjoyed the view for a long while. The sculpted cliffs are remnants of cinder cones, sculpted by the wind. Ocean waves tumble onto the beach. 

This is one of only two green sand beaches in the world. Depending on the light of the day, you will see different casts of green. I saw an olive colour, flecked with gold.

We rode back to our car, by standing in the back of a four wheel drive truck. A bumpy ride, where at points we were almost upended.

On the map, Panalu-u Beach was just around the corner. We arrived to a black lava shoreline with green succulents framing the sea. In the crowd I could pick out three or four people we'd seen on the Green Sands beach, making the same driving tour. Taking in the sights.

Kona Coffee

Here I am in Hawaii, eating mango, papaya, and macadamia nuts, and drinking coffee as part of a 100 mile diet.

Monday we toured Greenwell Farms. Kona's oldest coffee farm was established in 1850. 

Some of the trees producing coffee here are 117 years old. While these trees don't produce a lot of fruit, the flavour of the bean is deep and complex, and used to make Onouli coffee. We sampled Peaberry, Full City Roast, Espresso, Jenny K, and Autumn Harvest. A full range of tastes and bodies. Coffee heaven!

As we were driving around the countryside, we saw lots of coffee trees. In addition to growing beans, Greenwell buys from the many independent growers in Kona. 

Beans are harvested August to November, and must be picked by hand, because each bean ripens at a different rate. Then they are inspected for beetles and if there is too much damage, are discarded. On average, a tree will produce 2 - 3 pounds of coffee in a year - and that's before drying. It's a very labour intensive, time-consuming business, which is part of the reason why Kona coffee is so expensive. To order this coffee and have it shipped home would be more than $100 a pound, so when we left with 12 ounces of Jenny K we felt we were leaving with treasure.

Coffee cherries are the new superfood. These are the colourful red casings that have been discarded for years by the industry. Now they've been discovered as a powerful anti-oxidant. The latest superfood is touted to to boost the immune system, protect against free radicals and act as an anti-inflammatory. So within a few days of receiving the bean, Greenwell farms now preserves the fruit and uses it to create a wellness drink called Kona Red.

Coffee beans dry in the sun and are turned so effects are even. At peak harvest, because there are enough beans to fill them, drums are used. Tasters can't tell the difference but the romantic in me will imagine kona coffee sun-dried, always. Once thoroughly dried, beans are roasted.

There is so much difference between coffee beans, which is in part terroir, but also the roasting. Flavour is so much different for the same bean, when roasted to light, medium or dark. Even then, the temperature at which they are roasted and the length of time make a difference. A hotter temperature means the bean will pop that much faster, but sometimes to achieve the proper effect you want to take a bit longer to pull the full flavour from the bean.

Sipping the Jenny K now, and really appreciating the depth of the taste and incredible finish. I would pack my suitcase with it, but roasted beans last only 4-6 weeks. Greenwell sells their green beans in 100 pound bags, so maybe we could get enough people together to make a purchase...