On our itinerary:
We stepped off the ferry and easily found the rental property, aptly named Euphoria House. It was only a short walk and by now we were used to climbing the stairs that would take us to the apartment. Thank goodness we travelled light! There was a bit of a mix-up with the instructions for the key to open the door, so we first found ourselves in a small space that seemed.... occupied?!? Oops! We then realized we had to climb another flight to the room with the sunset view. When we unlocked that next door we discovered our terrace with its spectacular view of the port. The Pelopponese shore was just 200 meters away, across the channel. As the sun set, lights sparkled.
We left for dinner and chose an open air taverna covered with a simple awning. It began to rain, and then pour, with water flooding the streets and down the stairs. The waiters rushed to keep the deluge from collapsing the awning, using chairs and brooms to dump the heavy water. Diners were rushing inside as dinner plates filled to their brim with raindrops. Quite the scene, with thunder and lightning to brighten the score!
A beautiful little church at the foot of our stairs had its doors open all day. I went and sat one morning and was surprised to see so many of the local men coming in and out. They stayed long enough to light candles, kiss the icons, and bow their heads before heading to the street.
We were a week too early for Koon's Apollo opening scheduled at the DESTE Slaughterhouse gallery, where a massive sun was erected and built to spin in the wind. We chatted with someone on Koon's team whose job it was to get the patina and finishing just right on sculptures indoors and out. At another gallery estate we browsed the sculptures of art students from the University of Athens, the themes a mix of the modern and antiquity.
We were searching the upper hills for Leonard Cohen's house when we bumped into another couple who had just claimed their find. Cohen bought the property in the 1960's and it's still owned by his family. Cohen's time here was well-chronicled in a recent documentary, Marianne and Leonard. This is where he wrote Beautiful Losers, tripping out on mico-doses of acid every twelve hours. He also composed some of his earliest songs, including Bird on a Wire and Marianne. There is a bench by the sea with an inscription to honour his memory, "He came so far for beauty."
A water taxi took us to Bisti Beach for the afternoon where we rented umbrellas and loungers on the rocky shore. Scraping together loose change from our pockets, we managed enough for a sandwich to split between us - cash only and no credit cards or ATMs on the beach. In Greece it is mandated that restaurants present a bill, or customers don't need to pay, but I didn't press the point. When waiting for my sandwich, an inspector from the mainland came to check the taverna's licenses. Interesting.
Spetses limits cars to its residents and taxi drivers, but there are plenty of noisy and smelly scooters. A tourist bus operates in high season, which we missed by a few days. Walking to the old port was pleasant, and we went up to see the lighthouse and take in the scent of the cedar forest. Dramatic waves on the rocky shore.
- Poros (2 nights)
- Hydra (4 nights)
- Spetses (day trip)
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We were visiting in early June, just before the high season, so although it wasn't very hot and crowded, not everything was open. The Saronic Gulf was still a bit too chilly for me to swim in, although I did enjoy the view!
There were rocky and sandy beaches, ancient ruins, architecture from Byzantium, Venetian and Ottoman times, cobbled streets, the beautiful blue of the sea.
Rugged beauty and romance all throughout.
Hydra and Spetses in particular played key roles in the resistance movement that overthrew the long rule of the Ottoman Empire, which governed most of Greece from the fourteenth century until its declaration of independence in 1821. Canons still mark the place of battles and defence.
Poros (2 nights)
We stepped off the ferry and easily found the rental property, aptly named Euphoria House. It was only a short walk and by now we were used to climbing the stairs that would take us to the apartment. Thank goodness we travelled light! There was a bit of a mix-up with the instructions for the key to open the door, so we first found ourselves in a small space that seemed.... occupied?!? Oops! We then realized we had to climb another flight to the room with the sunset view. When we unlocked that next door we discovered our terrace with its spectacular view of the port. The Pelopponese shore was just 200 meters away, across the channel. As the sun set, lights sparkled.
We left for dinner and chose an open air taverna covered with a simple awning. It began to rain, and then pour, with water flooding the streets and down the stairs. The waiters rushed to keep the deluge from collapsing the awning, using chairs and brooms to dump the heavy water. Diners were rushing inside as dinner plates filled to their brim with raindrops. Quite the scene, with thunder and lightning to brighten the score!I had heard about the Lemon Forest and was enchanted by the idea of a visit. In May, the scent is said to waft across the channel in the breeze. The forest is actually spread over many acres and is made up of several different properties and hiking trails. We didn't make it to Galates to explore, but could see the trees on the hills.
A beautiful little church at the foot of our stairs had its doors open all day. I went and sat one morning and was surprised to see so many of the local men coming in and out. They stayed long enough to light candles, kiss the icons, and bow their heads before heading to the street. The Clock Tower was just three flights of stairs up from Euphoria House. It was built in 1927, so positively modern by Greek standards! A little city bus operates free of charge during the day, taking a short route a few blocks around the main port.
If we were feeling more adventurous we could easily have taken a taxi or water taxi to one of the many beaches or to explore ancient ruins and historic sites. We were more than content to take in the daytime and night time views from our terrace.
A 35 minute ferry ride took us directly to Hydra.
Hydra (4 nights)
When we landed in the port, Aga was waiting at a nearby gallery to escort us to our stay at Hydra Port Apartments. Although not as posh as some of the places on our tour, it had everything we needed: a working kitchen, a comfortable bed, great shower, and generous closets. Best of all was the balcony, just one flight up from all the action and drama unfolding in the port. And what drama!
Hours and hours of entertainment and a perfect perch for people watching. Busy traffic, with the ferries coming and going, the donkeys loading and unloading, the choreography of the water taxis, fishing boats, yachts and super-yachts. Wow!
There are no cars, four wheelers or scooters allowed on Hydra, and I can't say I missed the sound of noisy engines or the smell of gas and diesel. The pace is slower, too. Did I mention the church bells chiming on the hour?
In the morning, fishing boats would tie up and wait for restaurants and markets to claim their catch. Cats gathered by the water's edge and waited patiently for scraps. Working boats would arrive with deliveries, and mules and donkeys would be loaded to carry their burdens up the hill - including kitchen appliances, bricks, and even trees intended for island renos. Only the occasional tourist seemed to opt for a donkey ride.
Rob and I also spent time googling the names of large yachts to find out who owned it, how much it cost, or whether it was a rental. Dakos Joannou, the Greek tycoon, was in town preparing his DESTE gallery for a Koon's opening on the summer solstice. His super-yacht, Guilty was tied up less than 200 feet away. He uses the super-yacht as a family boat to travel the islands. There were other much larger super-yachts with values in excess of $400M, but none with the audacity, style and irreverence of Guilty.
We were a week too early for Koon's Apollo opening scheduled at the DESTE Slaughterhouse gallery, where a massive sun was erected and built to spin in the wind. We chatted with someone on Koon's team whose job it was to get the patina and finishing just right on sculptures indoors and out. At another gallery estate we browsed the sculptures of art students from the University of Athens, the themes a mix of the modern and antiquity.
We were searching the upper hills for Leonard Cohen's house when we bumped into another couple who had just claimed their find. Cohen bought the property in the 1960's and it's still owned by his family. Cohen's time here was well-chronicled in a recent documentary, Marianne and Leonard. This is where he wrote Beautiful Losers, tripping out on mico-doses of acid every twelve hours. He also composed some of his earliest songs, including Bird on a Wire and Marianne. There is a bench by the sea with an inscription to honour his memory, "He came so far for beauty."The Ecclesiastical Museum is a quiet escape from the main street, and one morning I heard the haunting chants of a mass coming from the church of the Assumption as I sat in the courtyard.
We walked along the water's edge to visit nearby towns Avlaki and Kamini Harbour. At night the paved stones gleamed under dimly lit streets. In the daytime there was the Mediterranean light and blue of the Aegean. Magic in the air.
A water taxi took us to Bisti Beach for the afternoon where we rented umbrellas and loungers on the rocky shore. Scraping together loose change from our pockets, we managed enough for a sandwich to split between us - cash only and no credit cards or ATMs on the beach. In Greece it is mandated that restaurants present a bill, or customers don't need to pay, but I didn't press the point. When waiting for my sandwich, an inspector from the mainland came to check the taverna's licenses. Interesting.
Aperol Spritzes were our cocktail of choice. There were restaurants for every price range. One of our most memorable lunches here was a simple meal in a tavern in Kamini Harbour, watching the fishing boats bob in in the water. We really didn't have a single disappointing meal.
A bit more pricey was Omilos. Formerly known as Lagoudera and a haunt of everyone from the Beatles to the Kennedys, this upscale bistro is located in a former fuel depot near the entrance to the port. You can’t get much closer to the water, with waves crashing below the terrace. I want to learn how to make a celery foam that looks like the froth from the sea, so I can plate scallops on a coulis of celery and cauliflower and make it look like a meal for a mermaid! The lamb was done perfectly, and the dessert souffle finished at the table. The waiters made every guest feel as though they were their only customer. Outstanding. Best meal of the trip!
Yes, I would definitely return to Hydra.
Spetses (daytrip from Hydra)
We decided to ferry over to Spetses, a favourite tourist spot for many. This Saronic Island is fairly upscale and affluent, with the distinction of being the first to raise the flag of insurrection against the Ottoman Empire in 1821.
The idea was to spend an afternoon and return for dinner, but it turned into a much longer visit when the high speed ferry was cancelled due to high winds.
Spetses limits cars to its residents and taxi drivers, but there are plenty of noisy and smelly scooters. A tourist bus operates in high season, which we missed by a few days. Walking to the old port was pleasant, and we went up to see the lighthouse and take in the scent of the cedar forest. Dramatic waves on the rocky shore.
When our ferry was cancelled, we headed over to the gorgeous Poseidon hotel and sipped our Aperol Spritzes very slowly. They didn't rush us to pay our bill, which was much appreciated. Bouboulina's statue is erected in front of the hotel. She is a heroine of the insurrection, honoured as the first woman to rise to the rank of Admiral. I'd like to learn more about her fascinating life and loves. After a few hours enjoying the view from here, we wandered backstreets.
Waiting for the ferry we had the second worst meal of our trip in Greece. A bit of a letdown with old and overdone meatballs and oily saganaki. Thankfully a very rare occurrence anywhere we visited. A strong reminder not to take a good meal for granted!
I'm glad we made the visit to Spetses, if only to confirm Hydra was more to our tastes for a longterm stay.
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