Modern French Cuisine

Rob was my date for the February curated dinner at the AGO, with French modern cuisine inspired by chef Eugenie Brazier.

Brazier (1895 – 1977) was a female chef and restauranteur, somewhat under appreciated in her own lifetime. In 1933 she was the first woman to receive 3 Michelin stars and went on to earn 6 more throughout her career. I'm currently reading At the Existentialist Cafe: Freedom, Being and Apricot Cocktails and can imagine Sarte and Beauvoir deep in passionate discussion at one of her tables. Many of the restaurants Eugenie established still endure and are still winning awards. In fact, La Mere Brazier, a restaurant in the country's culinary capital of Lyon took the "Enduring Classic" crown at the World Restaurant Awards on Feb 19, 2019.

8 courses (!!!!)  paired with French wines (even a CRU), with the chef and wine merchants saying a few words before each course. Unfortunately most of the wines were unavailable for purchase as they were produced in small quantities, sometimes only 50 - 200 cases. The descriptions of the food and wine helped to increase my appreciation for the terroir and techniques behind the flavours, but also fuelled anticipation, a needed ingredient for any feast.

I try to attend these extravagances once or twice a year - they are spectacular and such great value.

The citrus verrine was incredibly refreshing and helped to clear the palate after a couple of rich meat courses. I went looking for the recipe online but learned a verrine is simply a small glass layered with various fillings that can be sweet or savoury. Google search results were all returned in French when I searched 'simple verrine',  so I will have to test out google translator if I want to prepare something similar at home.

I was overstuffed by evening's end but savoured every single bite.

Menu

Brandade de morue / escabeche of winter vegetables, toast points 

(paired with Mittnacht-Klack 2015 Riesling)
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Puree of pumpkin and leek
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salmon souffle / champagne sabayon

(paired with domaine Robert Vic 2017 Mas de la Source Sauvignon Blanc)
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chicken dodine / bayonne ham, truffle, watercress, heirloom carrot

(paired with Domaine Bel Avenir 2016 Chenas)
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beef / beurre Bercy

(paired with domaine etienne pochon 2016 Crozes-Hermitage)
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intermezzo / citrus verrines
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cheese / selection with compte, triple cream and blue

(port!)
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petite baba au rhum