Bucket list - Japan in cherry blossom season! What a trip!
Asakusa View Hotel Annex Rokku
Situated in the heart of Asakusa, a historical district with echoes of Edo, our hotel was the perfect place to recover from a long flight. On our first day we arranged for a guide, Miho, to help us get our bearings and figure out how to navigate the largest city on the planet. She was wonderful - she greeted us with a handwritten note to be opened on arrival at the hotel, printed English versions of transit maps for us to take away, and even brought along hand warmers for the chilly day.
We were just a short walk from Sansoji Buddhist Temple, and were able to visit early, before crowds overtook the scenery. Miho demonstrated how to make offerings and pay respects. Later at the Meiji Shrine we bowed at the Tori gates when entering and upon leaving. We observed a Shinto priest blessing new cars that were lining up for rituals. We noticed a corner on one of the walkways that was designed at an 88 degree angle to bring luck to those who walk the path. I'm not sure we would have attended to these details otherwise.
Miho left us at the Meiji Shrine and we were comfortable enough to make our way back to the hotel and begin explorations on our own. The next day we marvelled at the grounds of the Imperial East Garden and made our way up the Tokyo Skytree.
Sansoji temple * Shinjuku Business District / Shinjuku Godzilla * Shinjuku station * Harajuku Meiji Shrine and Inner Garden with bonsei * shinto wedding * Imperial East Garden * Tokyo Skytree * izakayas on Hoppy Street *
Odakyu Hotel de Yama
We booked the Romance Car to take us from Shinjuku Station to Hakone. The skies were overcast with a light rain when we arrived.
A huge Western style hotel welcomed us with high ceilings and the player piano made an eerie soundtrack in the deserted lounge. There was a massive fireplace with real wood burning to help chase away the damp and chill of a very rainy day. We checked in, unpacked, and then took a shuttle bus down to the lake to sail through foggy clouds of mist aboard the Queen Ashinko.
Later at the hotel we enjoyed the public onsen. The open-air baths in the rooms are fed by free-flowing hot spring water from Gora Onsen, one of the 17 top hot springs of Hakone. There was a steam room as well as indoor/outdoor baths. I often had the entire women's bath to myself, but when I wasn't alone I still felt very comfortable even though entirely naked in front of stangers. What a great experience.
Next day we made full use of the Hakone Free Pass, although the rain and mist clouded the stunning views as we made our way by rail, bus, cable car and ropeway through the mountains.
Our last day we woke very early to the sight of the full moon over Lake Ashi. In the early morning light we had a clear view of Mount Fuji that was just as exciting to other early risers. Then, a short walk down the hill took us to the iconic red Hakone Jinja Tori Gate. We were so early there were hardly any people, unlike the day before when we saw crowds lining up in the rain to take their photos. Time enough to leisurely explore the Shrine as well as Odakyu garden.
Lake Ashi * Hakone Museum of Ceramics * Shinsenko Garden and Teahouse * Gora
SH by the Square Hotel Kyoto Kiyamachi
Our Western style hotel had generous proportions, two double beds and a closet to hang our clothes. Luxury! A city bus stopped in the front of the hotel, and Gion District was just a short walk away. Rain and more rain kept crowds at bay and also made for some amazing night photography. One evening we saw a crowd of well-dressed businessmen deeply bowing to another who was then escorted to the back of a limousine. Egrets roosted in the trees outside our window because Takase River was nearby, its path behind the hotel lined with cherry trees just starting to pop.
Just before we left Toronto to head for Tokyo, blossoms were forecast to peak during our stay in Kyoto, however cold weather kept pushing the opening back. Sakura hysteria was still everywhere, with lots of flowers and buds, hanami parties, and people out to admire the cherry blossoms whether they were opening or not!
There is so much beauty to absorb in this long established city.
Higashi Honganjo Temple * Ryoanji Zen Rock Garden * Golden Temple and strolling garden * Kenninji Temple, Zen garden, moss garden and Teahouse, twin dragons painted on the ceiling of the Dharma Hall * Kyoto Gyoen National Garden * Gion District and view of Yasaka Pagoda * Tenryuji Zen Temple, Sogenchi Teien (Sogen Pond Garden), Shoun-kaku and Kan'u-tei teahouses, Hyakka'en (Garden of a Hundred Flowers) * Arashiyama Bamboo Alley * Okochi Sanso Villa and Garden * Monkey Park * Tenzan No Yu Onsen * Kyoto Lost and Found * Porta Shopping Centre * Sanjusangendo Temple and thousand statues of Kannon and strolling garden * Shosi-en Edo period strolling garden* Shopping Arcade * Kodaiji Temple, light show and moon viewing platform * Philosopher's Walk and Lake Biwa Canal * Yasaka Shrine and Maruyama Park for hanami * Fushimi Inari Shrine
Deers wander freely throughout the city, grazing in the park and stuffing themselves on crackers fed to them by tourists. They will nod and bow for their treats if they are hungry enough. We saw some deer lying on the grass so full that crackers tossed by tourists still rested uneaten on their sides.
A guided walking tour one morning took us through the Park and along the way we learned Einstein played piano at the Nara Hotel in 1922. Legend also has it that when Nara was the capital of Japan in the 900's a maid of the court was rejected by the Emperor after their love affair and then drowned herself by Sarusawa Pond; every year there is an autumn festival to try to appease her wandering spirit.
The Todaiji temple houses one of the largest Buddhas in Japan and there is a pillar in the Great Hall with a small hole at its base. It is believed to be the size of the Daibutsu's (Big Buddha's) nostril. Anyone who manages to squeeze through that is believed to be granted enlightenment in their next life... I managed to make it through!
Byodin Temple (Uji) * Nakamura Tokichi (Uji) * Nara Park * Yoshikien Garden* Todaiji Temple and Great Buddha * Isuin Garden
Imperial Hotel Osaka
Wow! This was a 5 star hotel and our room overlooked the Okawa River, lined with cherry blossom trees almost at peak opening. Very spacious, with two double beds and two comfy chairs right by the window to soak up the incredible view. We were able to walk to Osaka Castle along one side and then travel back along the riverside through the Japan Mint with its display of twenty different tree varieties so people could vote their favourites. The hotel also had a shuttle bus to and from the Osaka city terminal, making it easy to access the city's core.
I wanted to taste one of Osaka's signature dishes - okonomiyaki - and Kiji was recommended as one of the best versions. The first night we went to Dotombori instead; the second night Kiji was scheduled to be closed; the third night we struggled to find the little hole in the wall as there was no English sign. Eventual success! A very tasty dish indeed, made sweeter by the chase.
Dotombori * Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street * Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan * Tempozan Ferris Wheel * Umeda Sky Building * Osaka Castle * Japan Mint * Kema Sakuranomiya Park
APA Hotel & Resort Nishishinjuku-Gochome-Eki Tower
Second time in Tokyo we opted for a slightly more affordable hotel but I may have underestimated how much impact the smaller room (and smaller bed) would have on our comfort. Only one of us could change in the room at the same time and suitcases were stuffed under the bed. The view from the 16th floor was pretty good though, so at night we pretended we were in a sky bar & during the day we pretended it was a cabin on a boat!
Although the room was cramped, this hotel had a great communal bath with indoor/outdoor facilities. The last morning I enjoyed the tub and pool outdoors while raindrops splashed heavily all around. Good laundry facilities came in handy, and ice was easily available on the second floor. Also a one minute walk from the subway and ten minutes to the neighbourhood park and shrine.
One afternoon/evening we met up with an old fiend, John M., who has lived 35+ years in Japan. Watching Japanese people react when he spoke their language so fluently was part of the fun travelling with him through the streets and back alleys, into parks and past shrines. One of the sights was a double film crew shooting scenes for a daytime soap.
Our last day we celebrated our anniversary in full Tokyo style! We got carried along with the crowd at Shibuya Crossing and then went up to 11th floor seating at Starbucks where they surreptitiously shot the crossing for last scene in the film Lost in Translation. An entire afternoon at Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden with a dizzying amount of cherry blossoms for hanami. Kobe and Yamagato beef for dinner, followed by cocktails on the 52nd floor of New York Plaza Hotel. How memorable.
Our flight was leaving the next day at 17:40, but torrential rain made any sight seeing impractical, so we headed straight for the airport via transit. Had lunch, did a small bit of shopping and then drinks at Star Cafe with planetarium projections about the night sky, coral reefs, black holes and funny animated creatures. Not a bad way to kill some time.
We arrived home in Toronto a full half hour before the flight left Tokyo, because of the difference in time zones. On the flight home, at one point my calendar was reading April 10 but I thought it was April 9, so I really did stop to figure out what day it was and just how I got there.
Shinjuku Chuo Park * Kumano Shrine* Sky Train * Team Labs Planets * Oedi Antique Market * Hibiya Park* Shinji-ike Pond * Imperial Palace * Chodorigofuchi Park * Yasakuni Shrine * Shibuya Crossing * Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden * Takeshita Street * Park Hyatt Tokyo / New York Bar * Haneda Airport
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